Sydney Harbour, Warships, and One Very Hard-to-Photograph Prince

City Guide

Sydney Harbour, Warships, and One Very Hard-to-Photograph Prince

I spent a year and a half building a life in Sydney, and watching fifty nations' warships sail into the harbour confirmed everything I had come to love about the city.

4 min read

📍 Sydney Harbour, Australia

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“The Royal Australian Navy's history tracks closely with Australia's own evolution from British dominion to independent nation, the two processes never quite completing separately but running in parallel through the twentieth century.”

The International Fleet Review that brought fifty nations’ warships into Sydney Harbour in October 2013 was officially a commemoration of the centenary of the Royal Australian Navy’s first fleet review, which took place in the same harbour in 1913 when the young Commonwealth’s naval force sailed in from its training in Britain and was welcomed by a crowd that lined the foreshore with the particular pride of a new country discovering it could project military power across an ocean. A hundred years on, the scale was different: forty warships, sixteen tall ships, a public holiday, and a programme of flypasts and simulated engagements that gave the firework display over the Opera House the unusual character of being also, technically, a reenactment of a Second World War aerial attack on the harbour bridge.

The Royal Australian Navy’s history tracks closely with Australia’s own evolution from British dominion to independent nation, the two processes never quite completing separately but running in parallel through the twentieth century. Australia sent ships to both World Wars under arrangements that involved complex negotiations between the Australian government and the British Admiralty about operational command, the same negotiations that characterised Australian participation in British imperial conflicts more broadly and that produced, over decades, the progressive assertion of Australian strategic independence that culminated in the defence policy frameworks of the 1970s. The fleet review was an occasion for celebrating what the navy had become, which is a genuinely capable force with regional responsibilities, without dwelling too much on the institutional history of how it got there, which is more complicated than centennial commemorations tend to find useful.

250 miles

The ship's radar system can track multiple targets simultaneously at ranges of over 250 miles and maintain targeting on objects moving at twice the speed of sound.

Sydney Harbour, Australia

We took a private harbour tour, which navigated as close to the exclusion zone around the visiting ships as the police permitted, which was close enough. HMS Daring, the Type 45 destroyer that is the most advanced air-defence warship the Royal Navy operates, sat in the harbour with the composed geometry of a ship designed to be very difficult to see on radar, which makes it paradoxically more visible to the eye than older vessels: the angled surfaces and clean lines that reduce its radar cross-section give it a distinctly twenty-first century silhouette that reads as designed rather than functional. The ship’s radar system can track multiple targets simultaneously at ranges of over 250 miles and maintain targeting on objects moving at twice the speed of sound. It is a very expensive piece of equipment for a country that has been systematically cutting its defence budget for twenty years, which is a tension the Royal Navy lives with rather than resolving.

Prince Harry was somewhere in the proceedings as part of what his office described as official Commonwealth engagements, and the harbour contained people who wanted to photograph him. I was among them, intermittently, before concluding that the warships were more interesting than the prince’s boat and redirecting my camera accordingly. The evening fireworks were magnificent in the way that Sydney harbour fireworks are always magnificent, which is to say that the combination of the Opera House, the bridge, the water, and the skyline provides a backdrop that makes almost any pyrotechnic display look like it was specifically designed for that location, which of course it was.

Prince Harry was somewhere in the proceedings as part of what his office described
as official Commonwealth engagements, and the harbour contained people who wanted to photograph him.

Living in Sydney had been the working chapter of the trip: a year and a half of project management work, of learning what ordinary life looks like in a city that isn’t Barnsley, of building something with Noy that the previous years of constant movement had not made time for. The fleet review was an occasion, a public event in a city I had come to know well enough to have opinions about, which is one of the markers of having actually been somewhere rather than passed through it. I have opinions about Sydney. The fleet review confirmed several of them: that the city takes its geography seriously, that it knows what it has in the harbour, and that it is very good at the kind of public spectacle that involves large bodies of water and significant explosions.

250 miles

The ship's radar system can track multiple targets simultaneously at ranges of over 250 miles and maintain targeting on objects moving at twice the speed of sound.

Trip Guide

Sydney Harbour, Australia

5-7 days

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Best time to visit

October offers spring weather with mild temperatures and clear skies, ideal for outdoor events and harbour activities. The International Fleet Review occurs periodically, but Sydney Harbour is spectacular year-round.

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Getting there

Fly into Sydney Kingsford Smith Airport, which has direct flights from London (approximately 17 hours). From the airport, take a train, taxi, or ride-share to reach the city centre in 15-20 minutes.

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Where to stay

Stay in Circular Quay, The Rocks, or Barangaroo for proximity to the harbour; alternatively, consider beachside suburbs like Bondi or Coogee for a different perspective. Mid-range hotels and serviced apartments are abundant throughout the city.

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Daily budget

Budget approximately £80-150 per day excluding flights, depending on accommodation choices and dining preferences.

Flights £600-900
Stay £60-120
Food £20-40
Activities £15-35
Transport £8-15
Estimated daily total £103-210

Good to know

  • Book harbour cruises and tours in advance, especially during major events like fleet reviews • The Rocks neighbourhood offers excellent restaurants and pubs with harbour views • Use the Opal card for seamless travel across trains, buses, ferries, and light rail • Visit during weekdays to avoid crowds at major attractions like the Opera House and bridge • Bring sunscreen and a hat year-round; UV exposure is intense in Sydney

Sydney is more expensive than regional Australia but competitive with other major cities. Accommodation costs vary significantly by suburb and season; staying outside the city centre reduces daily costs.

Estimates based on research at time of writing. Check current rates before booking.