My hairdresser gave me a leaving card. That was the moment it stopped being a plan and became a thing that was actually happening. Not the booking in STA Travel, not the visa applications, not the afternoon I spent watching Russell map fifty thousand miles onto a piece of A4 with the patience of someone who has done this enough times to be immune to the scale of other people’s plans. It was a woman who cuts my hair every six weeks handing me a card with a plane on the front, all her colleagues’ names inside, saying have a wonderful time. I thought: bloody hell, I’m actually doing this.
Barnsley is not a place that produces many round-the-world travellers, though I have no data to support that impression and it may be wrong. It is a South Yorkshire market town that was built on coal and has been rebuilding its identity since the pits closed, a process that began in earnest with the 1984-85 miners’ strike and has been continuing at varying speeds ever since. The town has a directness that comes from a culture that has always valued labour over performance, where the gap between what people say and what they mean is small and where leaving for an extended period requires some explaining. I have done the explaining. The responses ranged from warm encouragement to a kind of affectionate bewilderment that I found more touching than any of the encouragement.
It is a South Yorkshire market town that was built on coal and has been rebuilding its identity since the pits closed, a process that...
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