Phuket, Koh Phangan, Koh Tao: What Thailand’s Islands Actually Are

Island Guide

Phuket, Koh Phangan, Koh Tao: What Thailand’s Islands Actually Are

I learned that the real Thailand exists outside the guidebooks, on quiet roads where tourism hasn't yet organised itself.

6 min read

Share

Copied!
Tweet WhatsApp

“The 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami killed approximately 230,000 people across fourteen countries, making it the deadliest tsunami in recorded history.”

In 2004 our guide was in a sea cave with a group of Americans when the water started rising. He was paddling a canoe through the rock-enclosed lagoon that the tour passes through, and the tourists were photographing the limestone formations, and the water came up quickly and then went back down, pushed by the pressure wave of something happening outside that he could not see. One of the Americans said immediately that it felt like a tsunami. He didn’t know the word. He completed the cave section of the tour and paddled out into open water, where he saw capsized boats and bodies and, beyond them, the islands where he lived, changed in a way that is difficult to describe with precision in English and which he described in Thai to Mariana, who translated.

His wife died. Many of his colleagues died. The tours began again when the infrastructure was rebuilt, because that is what you do, because tourism is how the economy of the Andaman islands works and stopping would not bring anyone back and would only remove the income that the survivors needed to rebuild with. He tells the story now to the tourists on the canoe, precisely and without self-pity, and then continues the tour.

The 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami killed approximately 230,000 people across fourteen countries, making it the deadliest tsunami in recorded history. The wave was generated by a magnitude 9.1 earthquake off the northern coast of Sumatra at just before eight in the morning on the twenty-sixth of December, a moment of almost no resistance because it was the morning after Christmas in a region full of Western tourists who were asleep or having breakfast, and because the warning systems that might have alerted the coastal populations to what was coming did not exist in the Indian Ocean in 2004, were funded and built only after the fact. Thailand lost around 8,000 people, the majority of them tourists and tourist-economy workers in Phuket and Krabi and Phi Phi. Every tourism worker in Phuket old enough to have been working in 2004 has a version of the guide’s story. The evacuation signs that now appear on every beach and road in the province, pointing uphill toward designated high ground, arrived after the people they might have saved were already gone.

2004

The 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami killed approximately 230,000 people across fourteen countries, making it the deadliest tsunami in recorded history.

Phuket, Koh Phangan, Koh Tao: What Thailand’s Islands Actually Are

Mariana had invited me to Phuket. We had met in the Philippines, in a hostel in Manila, and she had been living on the island for several months, teaching English. She knew the parts that the guidebooks emphasise and the parts they don’t, and the two days I spent touring the island on a moped under her instruction were the best days of that stretch of the trip. Phuket outside Patong is a different country to Phuket inside it. Patong Beach, where most tourists concentrate and where the bars and the sex industry and the parasail operations produce a version of Thailand that is more accurately a version of what large numbers of budget tourists, primarily young and European and Australian, produce when concentrated in a warm place with cheap alcohol, is the part of the island that Phuket’s tourism board would probably prefer visitors to move through quickly.

The rest of the island, reached by moped along roads that climb through rubber plantations and descend to coves that are not yet on any walking map, is beautiful in the way that Thailand’s landscape is beautiful when tourism hasn’t had time to fully organise around it. We stopped where we wanted to stop. We took the wrong road twice and found better things than we were looking for. I crashed nothing and damaged nothing and can report that the moped is an excellent way to explore an island if you have someone who knows the roads and is willing to teach you how to lean into corners without panic.

The Phi Phi Islands, which the film The Beach made famous and which have been working through the consequences of that fame ever since, were included in a boat trip I took with Mariana and Sarah, an Australian woman I had met at the hostel in Phuket. The beach in question is now accessible by boat from Phi Phi Don and has at most moments of the day more than thirty boats moored off it and an atmosphere that the film, which required the production company to clear and replant the vegetation to make it look more cinematic, would probably not have used as a setting if the setting had already been as crowded as it now is. Phi Phi, which was devastated by the 2004 tsunami and rebuilt largely for tourism, is a lesson in what happens to beautiful places when they become famous faster than the infrastructure can manage the consequences.

Phi Phi, which was devastated by the 2004 tsunami and rebuilt largely for tourism, is a lesson in
what happens to beautiful places when they become famous faster than the infrastructure can manage the consequences.

Koh Phangan, reached by a long bus from Phuket and a ferry from the mainland, is most famous for the Full Moon Party, which swells the island’s population by twenty thousand people once a month for an outdoor trance rave on Haad Rin beach. We arrived for the half moon party, which is smaller and which produced in me a sincere appreciation for the people who genuinely love trance music and a sincere recognition that I am not one of them. Sarah was in her element. I left early.

The moped I hired on Koh Phangan I damaged on a beach track that was optimistically classified as a road. The tyre wall sustained a cut that required repair, and the cost was two hundred pounds, which I paid because it was my fault and because declining to pay it would have been the wrong thing to do, though this position became slightly harder to maintain when the hire shop owner asked three times if I was injured and looked genuinely disappointed that I wasn’t. The island outside the party circuit is peaceful and unhurried in the way that Thai islands away from their own points of fame tend to be.

Koh Tao I went to for diving, which I completed without the enthusiasm my instructors were hoping for. Fish are, in aggregate, a fish. The coral was beautiful. I am aware this makes me the wrong kind of person to have taken the advanced course. I came back to Bangkok and bought a ticket to Myanmar instead.

2004

Phi Phi, which was devastated by the 2004 tsunami and rebuilt largely for tourism, is a lesson in what happens to beautiful places when they...

Trip Guide

Phuket, Koh Phangan, Koh Tao, Thailand

7-10 days

☀️

Best time to visit

November to February offers the best weather with lower humidity and minimal rainfall. Avoid the monsoon season from May to October and the peak tourist crowds during December and January.

✈️

Getting there

Fly from the UK to Phuket International Airport, which receives direct flights from London and other major UK cities (typically 12-15 hours). From Phuket, ferries connect to Koh Phangan (2-3 hours via bus and ferry) and Koh Tao (5-6 hours via multiple ferries).

🏨

Where to stay

Stay in hostels in Phuket town or near Patong Beach for budget options, or choose quieter guesthouses on Koh Phangan and Koh Tao away from party zones. Book accommodation in advance during Full Moon Party season on Koh Phangan.

💰

Daily budget

Budget £25-40 per day including accommodation, food, and activities for budget travellers.

Flights £400-650
Stay £8-25
Food £3-8
Activities £10-30
Transport £2-5
Estimated daily total £23-68

Good to know

  • Hire a moped to explore beyond the main tourist areas, but only if you're confident riding and familiar with local roads
  • Visit beaches and islands outside peak season to avoid the overwhelming crowds at famous spots like Phi Phi
  • Be respectful of tsunami memorials and learn about the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami that shaped these islands' recovery
  • Negotiate moped hire costs upfront and inspect the vehicle for existing damage before renting
  • Skip the Full Moon Party if large crowds and trance music aren't your scene; the half moon party is quieter

Thailand remains affordable for budget travellers, though tourist hotspots like Patong Beach and Phi Phi Islands charge premium prices. Hiring a moped (£5-8 daily) is the best value for exploring beyond main tourist zones.

Estimates based on research at time of writing. Check current rates before booking.