Detours and Decisions

Detours and Decisions

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“For now the route is what it is: a line drawn across a map, through places that are mostly still abstractions, toward a continent I've never set foot on.”

The interesting thing about planning a long trip is that the plan never quite survives contact with the research. You start with a rough shape, the countries you want to visit, the general direction of travel, and then you begin actually looking into each place and the shape shifts. Something that seemed logical on the map turns out to be logistically impossible, or expensive in a way you hadn’t accounted for, or there’s somewhere else you hadn’t considered that keeps appearing in everything you read and eventually you have to admit that not going there would be a mistake.

The Philippines wasn’t in the original plan. Japan was the first stop, and after Japan I’d assumed I’d head to China and then work my way south. But the more I read about the Philippines, the more it seemed like an oversight bordering on negligence to skip it. The country is, depending on which account you read, somewhere between seven thousand and seven thousand six hundred islands, the number varying because the definition of island turns out to be more contested than you’d think. Many of those islands are small enough that high tide renders the argument academic. But the larger ones, Luzon in the north and Mindanao in the south and the Visayas scattered between them, are places of real scale and variety, with histories shaped by three centuries of Spanish colonialism, fifty years of American administration, and a series of political upheavals that the country is still, in various ways, working through.

Japan was the first stop, and after Japan I'd assumed I'd head to China and then work my way south.

Detours and Decisions

None of that is why I decided to go, if I’m being honest. I decided to go because the photographs looked like the Maldives, and the cost of a pint of San Miguel was apparently forty-five pence. Those are not profound reasons for visiting a country, but they are honest ones, and the Philippines has a habit of then delivering something much larger than you bargained for.

So the route has shifted slightly since that afternoon in STA Travel. After ten days in Japan I’ll fly to Manila and spend three to four weeks in the Philippines before heading to China. The Japan leg stays the same: Tokyo, then south by bullet train to Nagasaki, across to Hiroshima, up to Kyoto, and then Hong Kong as a staging post before the Philippines. It’s a route through a country that manages to compress enormous historical and cultural complexity into a relatively small geographic area, something the Japanese are either very good at or entirely unaware of, and which produces in the visitor a feeling that varies between admiration and mild bewilderment, sometimes within the same hour.

But the more I read about the Philippines, the more it
seemed like an oversight bordering on negligence to skip it.

The total distance for this first section, Barnsley to Cairns, comes to somewhere around twenty-five thousand miles. The whole trip will cover roughly fifty thousand. Written down like that it reads like a figure from the wrong column. It isn’t quite real yet. The flights are booked and the visa applications are in and the bank account knows about it, but the actual miles, the actual hours in transit, the actual chain of buses and ferries and overnight trains that connect the places on the list, these remain theoretical. They’ll stop being theoretical on the first of March.

I have a working visa for Australia and a bank account and a tax number, which means the South America leg of the trip can wait until I’ve spent some time earning in Melbourne or wherever I end up, long enough to fund the next section properly. The Spanish I keep meaning to learn hasn’t happened yet. The hope is that somewhere between Bangkok and Bali it will.

The total distance for this first section, Barnsley to Cairns, comes to somewhere around twenty-five thousand miles.

Detours and Decisions

They'll stop being theoretical on the first of March.

For now the route is what it is: a line drawn across a map, through places that are mostly still abstractions, toward a continent I’ve never set foot on. That will change in two weeks. The countdown has a number attached to it now. The planning is almost over, which means the actual thing is about to begin, and those are, it turns out, quite different propositions.